Cjarsons: Friuli’s Ravioli Full of Sweet and Savory Surprises
These mountain-born ravioli hide a mix of cocoa, cinnamon, herbs, and ricotta, turning every bite into a journey through Friuli’s history.
FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIAFOOD
Just imagine biting into a fragile little raviolo and discovering not merely cheese or herbs but a startling combination of sweet and salty tastes—cinnamon, cocoa, raisins, fresh herbs, perhaps even a whisper of potato. Cjarsons are a dish of hidden contrasts, not unlike Friuli-Venezia Giulia itself: tradition-based but full of surprises.
History and Origins:
Cjarsons are an old tradition of Carnia, the Friulian mountain range in the north of the region. They used to be prepared by wandering peddlers and botanists, the cramârs, who brought back exotic spices, raisins, and cocoa from their travels and prepared the cjarsons in their homes. The exotic ingredients were used for the filling, alongside local ingredients such as potatoes, ricotta, and herbs. The recipe varied in each valley and each town over the centuries, so no two versions are identical.
Ingredients and Preparation:
It is prepared with flour and water or with an egg-based mixture, spread thin and cut into circles. Filling may range from vegetarian to richer versions in accordance with tradition and may consist of mashed potatoes, fresh ricotta, parsley, chives, mint, cinnamon, cocoa powder, raisins, and even breadcrumbs fried in the butter. Filled pasta is sealed in half-moons and boiled and then topped with melted butter, smoked ricotta (the ricotta affumicata), and a pinch of sugar for the ultimate sweet touch.
Where to Try It:
To experience the real thing, go to Carnia in the summer months of food festivals, or to Osteria Al Fogolar in Tolmezzo, where cjarsons are prepared with a recipe dating back to the 19th century. In Udine, there is the Trattoria al Vecchio Stallo which serves the city version of the cjarsons with a slightly daintier filling but essentially true to the form.
Conclusion:
With their lighthearted combination of flavors, cjarsons are more than pasta—they’re food history, and the story of a mountain people who brought the world back into their kitchens one spice at a time.