Farinata di Ceci: Genoa’s Golden Street Food Tradition

Thin, golden, and slightly crispy on the edges with a soft heart—farinata di ceci is one of the most beloved street foods of Liguria Italy. Made simply with chickpea flour, water, olive oil, and a pinch of salt, it's a dish that surprises in its elegance despite humble origins.

For anyone exploring things to do in Genoa Italy, tasting farinata fresh from the oven is as essential as visiting the Palazzi dei Rolli or strolling along the Porto Antico. It embodies the spirit of Genoa food: simple, filling, but incredibly flavorful.

And yes—it's vegan and vegetarian by nature, making it a guilt-free delight that fits modern diets without losing its traditional soul.

What Is Farinata di Ceci?

Farinata is a large, thin pancake baked in wide copper pans, known locally as tian, in a wood-fired oven. Its golden surface hides a tender inside, almost custard-like, with earthy aromas of chickpeas and olive oil that'll make your mouth water instantly.

Locals eat it piping hot, cut into generous slices, often with a grind of black pepper or a sprinkle of rosemary. Its texture is somewhere between a crepe and a frittata, but with the hearty taste of legumes that's absolutely satisfying.

You can read more about the city's culinary icons on Genoa's official tourism site: https://www.visitgenoa.it

A Dish Born of Necessity

Here's a story that'll make you appreciate farinata even more—legend has it that it was born by complete accident! In the 13th century, Genoese sailors caught in a terrible storm spilled chickpea flour and olive oil into seawater barrels. With little else to eat, they dried the mixture in the sun—and a new dish was born that would become legendary.

Since then, farinata has been a staple of Genoa food, representing both resilience and creativity. You'll still find it in charming bakeries and old-fashioned trattorias all over Liguria Italy, carrying on this beautiful tradition.

For a regional overview of traditions, the Liguria portal is a great reference: https://www.lamialiguria.it

Where to Eat Farinata in Genoa

Walking through Genoa's caruggi (narrow medieval alleys), the incredible smell of farinata wafts from these ancient ovens. Some of the most famous sciamadde (historic wood-fired bakeries) specialize in this delicacy and have been perfecting it for generations.

Sottoripa arcades: near the Porto Antico, you'll find century-old shops serving slices wrapped in paper—pure street food authenticity!

Boccadasse: the colorful fishing village on the eastern edge of Genoa is perfect for enjoying farinata by the sea with that gorgeous Mediterranean backdrop.

Camogli: on the Riviera, farinata becomes this perfect beachside snack. You can literally grab a slice and walk straight to Camogli beach, where locals eat it still hot while gazing at those beautiful waves.

Why Travelers Love It

For modern visitors, farinata is so much more than food—it's a complete cultural experience! It's cheap, filling, portable, and fits seamlessly into both traditional and plant-based diets. Being naturally vegetarian and vegan, it appeals to travelers with dietary restrictions while still carrying all those incredible flavors of centuries-old Ligurian kitchens.

If you're building your itinerary of things to do in Genoa Italy, definitely consider:

Touring the historic palaces of Via Garibaldi.

Exploring the maze of medieval alleys.

Visiting the Festa di Pegli, another local tradition you'll find in Genoa's west (see our full article on the Festa di Pegli).

And topping it all off with a slice of farinata fresh from the oven—a true Genoa food highlight that you absolutely can't miss!

Not Everyone Knows

Different Names: In Tuscany, a similar dish is called cecina or torta di ceci, while in Nice, France, it's known as socca. Same delicious concept, different regional twists!

The Oven Matters: Traditional farinata is always cooked in a wood-fired oven at extremely high heat, giving it that unique blistered surface that locals absolutely love.

A Ritual Food: In Liguria, it's common to eat farinata in the evening as a light dinner, often paired with focaccia or pizza by the slice. It's comfort food at its finest!

Street Food Symbol: Genoa's farinata shops (sciamadde) were once the meeting point of dock workers and fishermen; today, they remain iconic social hubs where stories are shared over hot slices.

How to Try It Yourself

When to Go

Shops serve it all year, but autumn and winter are the perfect seasons—the warmth of the oven contrasts beautifully with chilly Ligurian air and creates this cozy, magical atmosphere.

Where to Taste It

Look for bakeries around Porto Antico, Via San Lorenzo, and the Sottoripa arcades. For a seaside experience, grab a slice in Camogli and carry it down to Camogli beach for that perfect Mediterranean moment.

How It's Eaten

Locals prefer it plain because they believe the chickpea flavor is perfect as is, but some sprinkle black pepper or add thinly sliced onions before baking. However, purists will tell you with a smile that the chickpea flavor needs no dressing whatsoever.

FAQ

Q: Is farinata vegan or vegetarian? A: Yes! Farinata is naturally both vegan and vegetarian—made only with chickpea flour, water, olive oil, and salt.

Q: Where is the best place to eat farinata in Genoa? A: Try the traditional sciamadde near the Porto Antico or in the medieval alleys. For a seaside touch, enjoy it on Camogli beach.

Q: Can I make farinata at home? A: Absolutely. All you need is chickpea flour, water, olive oil, salt, and a hot oven. But the wood-fired flavor of Genoa's bakeries is hard to replicate.

Q: What else should I try if I'm exploring Genoa food? A: Don't miss focaccia Genovese, pesto alla genovese, and fried anchovies. They are staples of Genoa food culture.

Q: Is it a common stop when planning things to do in Genoa Italy? A: Definitely. Tasting farinata is as iconic as visiting the Lanterna lighthouse or the Genoa Aquarium, or joining locals during events like the Festa di Pegli.